As he prepared to open Little Market Brasserie in Chicago’s Gold Coast neighborhood, Poli sat down with Food & Wine to talk about burying eggplant in embers, spiking mayo with smoked pimentón and dousing grilled egg-and-cheese sandwiches in Sriracha chile sauce. There, the chef infuses Iberian staples like patatas bravas and albondigas with a healthy dose of American brio. But it wasn’t until 2012, when Poli launched Tavernita and the adjacent “stand-and-eat” tapas spot Barcito, that he truly had a chance to put all of his Spanish training to good use. Poli resurfaced in Chicago as chef de cuisine at Perennial, where he got his first serious accolades: Food & Wine called his black truffle gnocchi one of the best affordable dishes of 2009 and named him a People’s Best New Chef nominee in 2010. “I knew after the first day that I wanted to be a chef.” It wouldn’t be long before he would be cooking in more auspicious surroundings, starting in Napa with a stint at the storied French Laundry, and continuing in Spain at a number of the country’s most exciting restaurants (including the three-Michelin-starred Martín Berasategui in San Sebastián and El Celler de Can Roca in Girona). “I liked the late hours and seeing grown men and women swear,” says Poli. F&W Star Chef » See All F&W Chef Superstars Restaurants: Little Market Brasserie, Tavernita, Barcito (Chicago) Experience: The French Laundry (Napa), Martín Berasategui (San Sebastián, Spain), El Celler de Can Roca (Girona, Spain) When chef Ryan Poli was 17, he landed a job at the fish station in a Chicago diner.
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